France

Paris, France: Abbaye de Royaumont


Paris intra-muros is already so rich in monuments to visit and historical places that one can easily dismiss the idea of going outside the city to discover even more stunning locations. However, for those who have spent some time in the city or even live in Paris, it is always refreshing to take the train, leave the capital city of France, and go on an adventure in the surrounding regions of Île-de-France. There are so many beautiful places to visit around Paris that it is one of the best aspects of living in the city. You can easily escape the urban environment and find wonderful castles, villages, or abbeys to explore.

The Abbaye de Royaumont is one of those places. Located just one hour from Paris by train (line H, which departs from Paris Gare du Nord) near the small city of Viarmes, it is one of the most stunning places I have visited near Paris yet.

Abbaye de Royaumont Cloister Garden
Abbaye de Royaumont Cloister Garden

As with most Cistercian abbeys, the Abbaye de Royaumont is nestled in a serene and secluded setting, hidden amidst dense woods and embraced by tranquil ponds. The Cistercians had a predilection for such remote locations, deliberately seeking out places far removed from the bustling world, where they could establish a self-sufficient existence.

This deliberate seclusion was not merely an act of withdrawal from society but rather a deliberate choice to create a self-sustaining community that could devote itself fully to spiritual pursuits. In this tranquil haven, the Cistercians found solace and the perfect environment to foster their commitment to a life of prayer, manual labor, and the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment.

Thus, the Abbaye de Royaumont stands as a testament to the Cistercians’ deliberate choice of remote and serene locations, where they could immerse themselves in a contemplative existence, free from worldly distractions and in harmony with the natural surroundings that embraced their secluded haven.

Abbaye de Royaumont Main Refectory
Abbaye de Royaumont Main Refectory

When arriving at the abbey, I felt as if I was entering a place where time flowed differently. It was not like going back in time, it felt like entering a place out of our common time, a place that had its own time. I must confess that the only other location where I encountered such a profound sensation was during my visit to the Cistercian Abbaye de Fontenay in Burgundy, which stands as one of the most exquisite abbeys I have ever had the privilege to explore.

Abbaye de Royaumont, Cloister
Abbaye de Royaumont, Cloister

The abbey was built in the 13th century. It was founded thanks to the help of Louis VIII, whose last vows included the foundation of an abbey dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This is why this abbey had such a special status, and is named Abbaye Royale de Royaumont. Throughout its days until the French Revolution, the abbey played an important role in France.

Abbaye de Royaumont Main Refectory
Abbaye de Royaumont Main Refectory

However, when the French Monarchy fell, the clergy was forced into exile, and many properties of the French Catholic Church were then sold to industrialists, who demolished religious building to sell the stones, or use them to build factories. This was the case for the Abbaye de Royaumont. Its abbey church was destroyed, and its main buildings became a weaving plant.

Abbaye de Royaumont Main Refectory
Abbaye de Royaumont Main Refectory

Fortunately, as time went by, and owners changed, the abbey soon gained some interest from the intellectual elites of the region, and it became a quiet place of retreat under the Gouïn family. Most of the abbey was restored, and thanks to the Gouïn family, we can now enjoy the magnificent remains of what used to be a splendor.

Abbaye de Royaumont Lay Brothers' Refectory
Abbaye de Royaumont Lay Brothers’ Refectory

Today, the monument is part of the Monuments Historiques (and thus protected by the French Law), and is run by The Royaumont Foundation, which aims at making the abbey a meeting place for intellectuals and artists, as well as a place of learning for new generations.

Abbaye de Royaumont Kitchen
Abbaye de Royaumont Kitchen

If you ever have some time to visit the surrounding regions of Paris, I strongly advise you to spend a day at Abbaye de Royaumont: this is one of those special places you will never forget.

How to get to Abbaye de Royaumont from Paris?

Go to Gare du Nord train station.
Take the Line H train which goes to Luzarches.
Take Bus line 14 to Abbaye de Royaumont.

Bonus visit: Luzarches

If you take the train to Luzarches, make sure to spend an hour in the village, which has kept some of its medieval structures.

Luzarches church, Saint-Côme-Saint-Damien, dates back from the 12th century, and has kept some beautiful testimonies of its romanesque heritage.

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